Bold, Balanced, Barolo’s Built in 2019
2019 Domenico Clerico “Pajana” Barolo
2019 Luigi Einaudi “Monvigliero” Barolo
The 2019 vintage is being hailed as one of the great modern years for Barolo—a classic growing season that delivered wines of tension, clarity, and site-specific character. This month we feature two that are simply outstanding. One from Ginestra, comes from one of the southernmost vineyards in Barolo. The other, exactly the opposite, from the northern reaches of the region.
The Ginestra cru, planted in 1971 and rooted in sandy-loam soils with a high percentage of active limestone, yields a Barolo of haunting elegance and floral lift—proof that even in a warm vintage, the east/southeast-facing slope channels grace above all. Here there is a portion of active limestone in the soil, like in Volnay. This is important because active limestone blocks potassium absorption which keeps the pH low which in turn keeps acidities higher. Higher on the slope is the Pajana plot (330-340m)—named for the ancient trail winding between Monforte and Serralunga. It captures the identity of the vineyard while showing off its own unique identity: an elegant, more aromatic expression of Ginestra vinified for the first time in 5,000L casks. A vineyard within a vineyard in other words.
In the north of the appellation, Monvigliero sits like a crown jewel in Verduno, where cooler air and chalky (allegedly) soils bring a different kind of elegance to the wines of this vineyard. This vineyard, the newest member of the Poderi Luigi Einaudi family, debuted as a cru for them in 2018 and, in 2019, finds its stride. Known for its supple tannins and perfumed aromatics, Monvigliero expresses itself with energy and poise. It is a small cru with a southern exposure making it, “..the village’s Grand Cru,” according to Kerin O’Keefe in her book “Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine.” Whether or not it has chalk in it is debatable which Kerin mentions in her book. Einaudi says their portion of the vineyard does. But what does seem to hold true is that the soils here are said to impart a spice to the wine. It can be noted that while this has not been empirically proven, this spice quality seems to find its way to other varietals like the local Pelaverga. After fermentation finishes and a subsequent maceration of 22-25 days the wine will be racked. Malolactic fermentation is completed under controlled temperature conditions. The wine then undergoes an extended aging period in large oak casks before final refinement in bottle.
For summer pairings, lean into the region’s seasonal cuisine. A chilled plate of vitello tonnato—tender veal in a creamy tuna-caper sauce—brings out the savory, umami side of the wines. Carne cruda all’Albese, Piedmont’s answer to beef tartare, highlights the wines’ clarity and spice. For a warm dish, try tajarin al burro e salvia—delicate egg-yolk pasta with butter and sage—which mirrors the wines' texture and elegance. And for a rustic touch, insalata di fagiolini e patate (green bean and potato salad with anchovies and red wine vinegar) ties in acidity and salt, balancing Barolo’s structure beautifully. These are wines of place, and with the right dish, their story is even more compelling.
the map of Barolo shows the location of each of the vineyards featured in this month’s club.
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