Back to the cellar
2016 Domaine de l’Ecu “Sanctus” Vin de France
2012 Principal “Calcario3” Bairrada, Portugal
Have you ever heard of a “Super Portuguese Red?” Neither had we. If the 2012 Principal Calcario3 isn’t the first, it is the first I’ve ever heard of and certainly the first I’ve ever tasted. This exceptional red, yes, exceptional, is crafted from a blend of Touriga Nacional (50%), Merlot (30%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) so you can see how the “Super” connection has come about. If you’re unfamiliar with the Super term it is largely credited with Italy “Super Tuscans” which emerged in the early 70s with the release of Sassicaia’s first vintage (1968) in 1971. Tignanello would soon follow. The idea behind the category was basically to replace or include international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc or Syrah in their wines. The inclusion of these international varieties prohibited any wine containing them from the local DOCGs. Despite being mandated to use Vino Tavola on the label instead of Chianti, Brunello the wines soared in popularity and quality was outstanding. In the time since, we’ve seen the emergence of other regions including these usual suspects of Bordelaise varieties and Syrah with whatever the local variety is. In Priorat, you see it with Grenache as well and now, we see it in Portugal. In this category, the wine is absolutely, gorgeous. It’s a stunning wine. Beautifully polished by its age, this wine is 100% ready to drink. It’s full-bodied with firm yet refined tannins and vibrant acidity that lingers through to a long, mineral-driven finish. You'll find aromas of dark berries, cedar, leather, and minerals, all coming together in a wine that truly reflects the limestone-rich soils of the estate's 151 acres. Pair this with some pork chops or even a little filet mignon.
Under the direction of Fred Niger since 2010 the winery's commitment to biodynamic viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking has continued. Fred Niger, has built upon the legacy established by Guy Bossard at l’Ecu and continues to explore the interplay between vessel and wine, particularly through the use of amphorae. This experience also brought back a great memory of a 1993 Fleurie I tasted with Alain Coudert at his Domaine (Roilette) in Beaujolais back in 2020, further solidifying my belief that Gamay, when crafted with care, can indeed age gracefully. Despite its humble “Vin de France” designation Domaine de l’Ecu’s “Sanctus” is a serious wine. Sourced from the 1-hectare Les Ronces vineyard in Pays Nantais, the grapes were fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts and macerated on the skins for nine months in 350-liter amphorae. The resulting wine, bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with minimal sulfur additions, presents a luminous ruby hue and a complex aromatic profile. Notes of dark forest berries, wild strawberry, and subtle mineral and spice notes lead to a palate of ripe cranberries, tart lingonberries, and a hint of sour cherry bitterness, all framed by vibrant acidity and firm tannins. I must admit, I was hesitant about a nearly decade-old Gamay from the Loire, but after taking a bottle home, I was thoroughly impressed. I paired it with roasted chicken thighs (skin on / bone-in) and some sauteed mushrooms. Sublime!
Top: Fred Niger prefers a ‘hands on’ approach.
Bottom: The vineyards of Principal in Bairrada, Portugal
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